Taking pictures of surfing is double awesome obviously. It's getting paid just to have fun. While shooting from land the only risk is pulling your back from having a stupidly heavy camera bag.
It's in the water where you really pay your dues. Here's a little cut out and keep guide to the kind of stuff we put up with whilst trying to get aquatic images. This list is made from real world experience.
Torn Off Nails Swimfins are your friend. The little rubber blades are your lifeline and propulsion when out swimming. Losing them is a ball ache. Which is why we tend to tie them on in heavy conditions with shoelaces to prevent this happening.
If a lip lands on your heel as you are swimming under a wave the force of the wave can parachute the fin momentarily off your foot before the elasticity of the rubber heel strap brings it back on. All well and good. Except rubber is quite grippy. That ping back can snag your toe nails and snap them clean off in a jiffy … and yes it hurts as much as you imagine having a nail torn off would, except being in the sea you then have salt/sand going straight in the open wound. Not to mention still needing to swim. Yes. Fricking painful. 8/10 on the Pain-O-Meter.
Frozen Flesh
Something that only us Northern European and North American types have to worry about. Flesh exposed to the elements while swimming can go a bit funny. I don't wear socks when swimming as they are shit. So am use to my feet turning to blocks of ice.
What's not so nice is when you get out and the last bit of ankle skin before the toasty wetsuit starts all just falls off cos the skin has in fact just given up and died. Leaving a bloody, sticky ring of destruction around your ankle.
A mere 2/10 on the Pain scale as it's so cold and numb you can't feel jack shit anyway.
Stuffed Right Knee
Going over the falls in a front flip on a wedgey beach break, say like the Wedge in Newquay, and landing in six inches of water with your leg locked hurts. Blown cartilage thanks very much. 7/10 Pain. It's more the long drawn out nature of rehab that's the bugger here.
Broken Rib
Going over the falls with a brand new housing and surfacing to find it leaking is bad, but not painful. Until you break the golden rule of never turning your back on the ocean to survey the potential damage to a couple of grands worth of camera gear and you get blown into the air by a shorebreak whomper and get pile driven into the sand breaking a rib.
Pain factor 5/10. Main annoyance: not being able to laugh or breathe without it hurting for a month after.
Board To Head
Tourists. Do not trust them. Board to side of head tearing a hole in front of ear and leaving a kickass headache for a month afterwards is what happens if you give them a chance.
Pain factor: 8/10. Fear factor of internal brain bleed 9/10.
Bust Left Knee
Going over the falls at perfect Mundaka and getting driven straight legged into the bottom (other leg, so it all balances out) for nuked cartilage, buggered ligament and a sprinkling of bone chips on the side.
Pain factor: 9/10. Longevity factor 10/10 … as in it was 11 years ago and still hurts every day.
Broken Thumb
Same wipeout. Didn't even know until knee Doctor pointed it out. Cracked thumb knuckle by refusing to let go of housing whilst getting Mundaka whipped.
Pain factor: 4/10 no biggy.
Sand Under Contact
I'm a little bit blind. So wear contacts when shooting. They sometimes float off a little bit and you can get tiny bits of sand stuck under them. Which then scratch the bejeezus out of your retina. Double ouch. Salt factor makes it excruciating.
Pain factor: 8/10. Feels like someone's stabbing a fag on your eye and the pain lasts for weeks afterwards.
Bottom Whomping
Swimming under waves is all well and good when there's sufficient water to get under the waves. When there isn't … Well. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out what happens when you get caught inside. You get royally rickrolled.
You can curl up in a ball on the bottom and just get smashed or you can lay flat and just take the free chiropractic session. It's actually a remarkably good way of freeing any kinks and tensions in your back and spine.
Pain factor: 3/10 the biggest worry is the housing twatting you in the face or getting stuffed into the bottom. As is in sea floor bottom, not your bottom, that's just weird.